October 3, 2008
Moab, Utah

I’ve been reading this great book by John McPhee entitled Encounters with the Archdruid. I’ve never read John McPhee before, but yesterday I was in the Arches Book Store drinking chai in exchange for free wireless when a customer and the owner began an exchange about Glen Canyon Dam. My ears perked up since I have recently been to that dam and filmed it, and have spoken at length with my interview subjects about the pros and cons of the dam being constructed in the first place. After the customer had gone I delved into my own discussion, and henceforth I’m now reading this fantastic book by an amazing storyteller.
Man… I’m having a hard time finding the flow of my own writing these days.. and was about ot explain the books contents to you.. but figured I’d let the back cover do the work for me.
“The narratives in this book are journeys made in three wildernesses – on a coastal island, in a Western mountain range, and on the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon. Four men are involved: Charles Park, a mineral engineer who believes that our economic well-being rests on finding metals and extracting them from the earth wherever they are found; Charles Fraser, a resort developer who regards all conservationists as druids (religious figures who sacrifice people and worship trees”; Floyd Dominy, a builder of gigantic dams, who grew up in dry Western country and deeply believes in the impoundment of water; and David Bower, the most militant conservationist in the world. In turn, Park, Fraser, and Dominy encounter Bower, whether in rapids, in forests, on mountain trails, on a raft, in a jeep, or on foot – now reserved, now friendly, now fighting hard across a philosophical divide.”
-Encounters with the Archdruid, John McPhee
I have to tell you… I haven’t been really sleeping since I’ve been back in Moab. There’s a hum here. This place is a gateway. People are flowing in from all over the world. Jeeps, RV’s, Campers, and Big Rigs regularly roll down main street, and I’m beginning to think I liked Moab better ten years ago. I’m sure it’s not just the affect of the Archdruid who I am relating to more than ever, it’s who I am, and what this place has become.

Now it’s not fair to slam Moab. This place is amazing! I LOVE this place; I wouldn’t be back otherwise. The people here are just my kind of quirky cool, similar to the people of Dawson City in the Yukon… and to be honest, I rather enjoy Moab on a relatively quiet Tuesday morning.
Then after some superb interviews with locals, and some great personal encounters, Friday rolls around, and with it the influx of people.
I remember back the owner of Bushtakuh (my main gear sponsor located in Ottawa) saying, “There are two kinds of people who enjoy the outdoors. There are those people who respect and work to preserve the environment; viewing it as sacred… and then there are those who view nature as a playground for their sole enjoyment. I aim to educate the latter and support those who already tread lightly.”

As I soak up the exhaust fumes watching trailers roll by loaded with dirt bikes, atv’s, and everything but the kitchen sink… I can’t help but feel that Utah has become a playground… I can’t help but feel Moab is simply being used! And I don’t know why, but I feel protective of this place, and I’m actually a little pissed.
“Population is pollution spelled inside out.” – David BrowerNow this other part of me simply marvels and says, “MAN… Amazing! Humans are pretty incredible! And this is how they’ve decided to spend their time. Rippin’ around the countryside and havin’ a hell of a time. So be it. It is what it is. It exists. It has come to pass, and who the hell am I to judge the master plan of this whole thing…”
But mostly I just feel there has to be a better way. This town is booming, creating jobs, growth, development, which in turn is feeding families. People are smiling as they blow cash, and that cash is flowing in on some level, but what are the costs… I do love this place and it’s people, but I think I could have actually lived here ten years ago, I’m not sure that’s the case anymore.
I think Moab is the perfect place to view not only the desert, but also to catch what I feel is the main show these days; the final moments of what has been a really fabulous party.
And unlike Brower, I agree to a large extent with Park, nature will reclaim that which was disturbed, and natural order will prevail. Here, the desert will balance things out.
It IS the desert after all, and only that suited for adaptation and/or survival will one day remain.
peace,
d
P.S. But I am glad people are having fun, I just share a different definition of what fun is… I’m more of a quiet campfire and solitary hike kinda guy.